Week 28 & 29, Healthy again, arriving in Accra, Ghana and Nigeria looms! TOTAL 11408 KM’S (COUNTRY# 14)

After recharging the batteries on lake Busumtwi in the Ashanti region of Ghana, I once again felt ready for the challenge at hand, the weeks leading up to my arrival in the region were quite testing both physically and mentally as the grind of crossing Ivory Coast took its toll. A huge thanks goes out to Ms. Fallon Lee for popping over from South Africa to personally hand deliver Biltong, Amarula cream and homemade baked goods, all of which were integral to getting me back to fighting ways…grin.

Wet season is about to start, humidity levels have gone through the roof and hot, sticky, clammy days are on the agenda, escaping the heat is proving to be tricky. The Ghanaian countryside plays host to long flowing hills and lush vegetation which makes for good cycling provided you can manage the heat, camping however has become somewhat uncomfortable.

Mechanical glitches continue and the constant roadside tinkering and tweaking, fixing and mending is required to keep the bike in order, Africa demands a robust ride and this unforgiving neck of the woods puts your bike through its paces as the next pot hole or stretch of unsealed gravel is never far away coupled with a heavy load, broken spokes and flat tyres are a regular occurrence.

The 250 km stretch between Ghana’s two major cities Kumasi and Accra served up a few of its own little treasures, one of which is a local delicacy of snails that can be bought on the roadside and according to locals is prepared with regional tropical fruits of plantain, pawpaw and pineapple. Not to forget the roadside hubcap man that can sort you out with a brand new set of hubcaps in tropical surrounds.

Rolling into the capital Accra which is surprisingly organised for a major West African city, not without the usual congestion, polluted air and overcrowding this city offers up a few quieter suburbs on the outskirts of the CBD that are fairly chilled in comparison to other large west African cities and so far has proved a good spot to find some western luxuries I haven’t seen for months, still on the hunt for that elusive block of cheese, rumour has it there is a spot in town and I’ve made it my personal urban mission to find it as I spend a few days in Accra preparing to cross into Togo.

The Nigerian election process has gone fairly smoothly and I feel the crossing is doable, to date I am aware of 8 people killed in the north as a result of the elections and fingers are crossed the situation doesn’t escalate to levels where the crossing is not feasible. Any developments or changes in the situation that the readers become aware of please feel free to air your views through the comments section after the publication so I can proceed with fresh relevant information, my access to radio and television is restricted and I do not have the luxury of hearing breaking news as it unfolds.

The tiny countries of Togo and Benin are next on the list before crossing into Nigeria in roughly 10- 12 days from now, thanks for the continued support and personal emails keep them coming, donations however have taken a turn for the worse so if you are following the project and can afford to part with a few bob, feel free to make a donation to the cause via our online donation platform on the Global Wheeling website.

Thanks again for all the support, much appreciated. Easter greetings to all from a hot, humid West Africa.

Tags: around the world bicycle tour, crossing Ghana by bicycle, cycling for charity, cycling through Africa

Week 27, Recharging the batteries TOTAL 11148 KM (COUNTRY# 14)

After a demanding crossing of Guinea and Ivory Coast, Ghana represents a place to gather my thoughts, get my equipment and body back on track., and catch up on the football.

Reaching the 6 month mark on April 4th and roughly halfway to Cape Town, the journey thus far has been an eventful one serving up a medley of twists and turns that have not disappointed even the most demanding of adrenalin fueled readers. I have decided to take a few days rest in the Ashanti region of Ghana and work on the bike and try get my health back on track. Not having recovered fully from getting sick in Guinea, expiring visa’s and strict time restraints for the Ivorian crossing due to political issues, I have been forced to push on through less than optimum health conditions which has rendered me pretty darn knackered.

Feet up for a few days tinkering with the bike, keeping a sharp eye on Nigeria and their current national election process, another possible speed bump and one I’d like to be able to navigate as best as possible if it turns pear shaped. Onwards from Kumasi to the capital Accra in a few days to obtain visas for Togo, Benin & Nigeria, countries 15, 16 and 17 respectively.

Signing out of a short and sweet edition for week 27, tune back in next week for the usual West African antics as I continue the voyage south in search of decent food. Grin (craving cheese, wine and most things cold!!!)

Tags: Crossing Africa by bicycle, cycling for the planet, Cycling thrrough Ghana, eco charity bicycle ride, Global charity bicycle ride

Week 24, 25 & 26 Man down, relying on the goodness of others & stuck behind enemy lines in Ivory Coast TOTAL 10926 km

A complicated few weeks that refused the opportunity to get online and publish the blog, my belated apologies to those of you living vicariously through the publication.

The town of Nzerekore in Guinea would play host to a very sick cyclist, taking refuge in the Catholic mission for two days and nights trying to recover from a bout of food poising that had me delusional and drained my body of all its remaining energy. After having my toiletry bag stolen in Senegal, rectifying the situation was more complicated than it needed to be, a huge thanks to the guys at Herbalife, Mozambique for the donation of supplements that helped to get me back on track.

In a strange twist of fate my getting ill forced me to take a couple days rest, resulting in me not crossing over the border into Ivory Coast in the region of Danane, turns out to be an extremely lucky twist in the Global Wheeling saga as there was intense gun fire in the region between opposing forces as the complications in the country continue to unfold as two presidents battle for the helm of Cote Devoire.

After chatting to local Guinean traders that all refused to cross into Ivory Coast losing money in the process, news of Liberian mercenaries running riot in the region and thousands of refugees pouring over the border, I decided to give the Danane crossing a miss and head north to Mali and onwards to Burkina Faso to try and go around the conflict.

Unfortunately, curiosity got the better of me after notching up only 130 km north in the direction of Beylah, the thought of thousands of extra km just didn’t sit well with this tired cyclist. I made the call to cross into Ivory Coast in the northern rebel held region of Odienne’ and try my luck just north of the line of fire.

Entering the country in the northern rebel secured region was far from an official matter as I was met by a small faction of the rebel Force Nouval on entry, no stamps here, I was given a handwritten letter and instructed to take it to the first military check point in Odienne’25 km away and explain myself to the commander and plead my case for access into the country which was by no means guaranteed.

Sitting down with the commander of Odienne’ who had by this stage contacted the head of UN security for the region letting them know there was some South African fellow attempting to cross Ivory Coast on a bicycle. Not the best nationality to be parading around the north of Ivory Coast as Gbagbo and Zuma make no secret of their alliance and pro Ouattarra supporters not looking favourably upon South African Jacob Zuma and his relationship with the opposing Gbagbo.

I was given a strict itinerary and allotted time frame in which I had to cross the country, coupled with a letter for rite of passage which would be obtained for a small fee. (Libre Circulation).After two nights in the sanctuary of the UN compound I would roll out of Odienne’ with my letter intact and a pocket full of hope as I attempted to cross this intensely militarised region in a country on the verge of civil war solo on a bicycle.

Gravel roads, military check points, power cuts and humidity would be the order of the day as I navigated my way through Bundiali, Korhogo and Ferke making my way towards Bouna and in the direction of the Ghanaian border crossing of Chache.I would be taken in by Cattle farmers from Burkina Faso that had migrated with their herd south to graze from the fertile fields south of the border waiting for the rains to come during the wet season so they could return to their families with their cattle to feed of the new shoots that would sprout after the rains.

Reaching the border in Ghana would require navigating the river crossing, one I would achieve by hitch hiking a lift with cocoa traders on a small wooden boat to arrive on the shores of Ghana, country number 14, 6 months on the road and just shy of 11 000 km, Very pleased to be speaking English again and out of harm’s way for a bit as I enter a very friendly and safe feeling Ghana.

This publication goes out to the boys at the UN compound of Odienne’ in Ivory Coast and in particular the big man from Canada JM, who went above and beyond the call of duty to make my crossing of Ivory Coast as safe and feasible as possible, the man stands testament to good old school values of hospitality and helping a man in need, thank you brother.

Tags: Behind enemy lines, Cycling across Africa, Ivory Coast by bicycle, World bike tour